Tips from Pennington for Seeding or Overseeding Your Lawn
Tips, Tricks
Paul James, The Gardener Guy, shows you how to keep your existing lawn healthy, season after season.
Comments
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is that the guy from weekend at bernies? the dead guy
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I love seeded with pennington seed last week and I have new grass growing nicely. I recommend weed and feed 3 weeks before so that way the new grass doesn't have to fight with the weeds. also I raked away most of the dead weeds and added lawn soil. the tall fescue is very green and looks good.
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crabgrass pre-emergent that you can use when you overseed is sold under the trade name Tupersan common name (usually in 4-point font on the left side of the bag) is siduron
The Following is how you should overseed for PA:.
n Renovation Program I
(early to midspring or late summer to early fall)
This program is suggested when the existing population of
turfgrasses include 50 percent or more desirable species; there
are few or no perennial grass weeds (bentgrass, nimblewill,
quackgrass, tall fescue, etc.); and the thatch layer does not
exceed ½ inch.
1. Weed control
As a general guide, if only easy-to-kill broadleaf weeds such
as dandelion or plantain are present, 2,4-D may be applied
and the seeding may be done in two weeks. A combination
of 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba is suggested if the weed
population contains many different weed species or hardto-
kill weeds such as knotweed, clover, or ground ivy. A
six-week waiting period before seeding will be required following
the use of this herbicide combination. For other less
common weeds, the appropriate herbicides should be applied
according to the manufacturer’s directions. After waiting the
prescribed period and assuming adequate weed control has
been obtained, you are ready to proceed with the remaining
renovation operations. These steps should be followed in
sequence as one continuous operation.
2. Mow
Mow area closely (approximately ¾ inch) and remove all
clippings, leaves, and other debris by sweeping or raking.
3. Thatch
Thatch is best removed with dethatching equipment with vertically
rotating blades or aeration equipment. Remove thatch
only during periods of cool weather and adequate moisture.
Thatch should not be removed during periods of high temperatures
or drought or during late fall when winter desiccation
may occur. Maintaining a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0
will favor microbial activity and breakdown of thatch.
4. Cultivation
Mechanical aerating machines that remove plugs of soil from
the turf area are used to alleviate soil compaction and to prepare
a partial seedbed. Aeration should consist of a minimum
of eight to ten times over the area. A partial seedbed may
also be prepared by using a spiking machine or by severe
hand raking. Results with these methods will not be as good
as with aeration equipment.
5. Lime
Lime should be applied in accordance with a soil test. If the
lime requirement exceeds 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet,
apply 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet at the time of renovation
and the remainder the following spring or fall.
6. Fertilizer
Fertilizer should be applied in accordance with a soil test.
In lieu of a soil test, apply 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet
or a 0–20–20 or equivalent fertilizer plus 25 to 30 pounds
per 1,000 square feet of a turf-grade 10–5–5 or equivalent
fertilizer having 35 percent or more of the total nitrogen as
water-insoluble nitrogen.
7. Drag
Following cultivation (aeration, etc.) and lime and fertilizer
application, drag the area with a large door mat or section
of chain link fence to mechanically work lime and fertilizer
into the cultivated soil.
8. Seedbed preparation
Repeat the cultivation operation to further prepare the seedbed
for seeding. If an aerator is used, six to eight times over
will again be necessary.
9. Seeding
A turf-type disk seeder is the best tool for seeding. This
machine cuts the seed directly into the soil, ensuring the firm
contact between seed and soil that is necessary for maximum
germination. When no disk-type seeder is available, uniformly
broadcast the seed over the area. The total seed quantity should
be divided into two equal lots, sowing one lot in one direction
and the second at right angles to the first. Good-quality seed
of turfgrass species adpated to the environmental and use conditions
should be used. In open, sunny areas, improved turftype
cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, or tall
fescue can be used. If Kentucky bluegrass is chosen, use a blend
of equal parts of two to five cultivars. Mixtures of turfgrass
species are preferred in most lawn plantings. In sunny or partially
shaded areas use a mixture of 50 to 60 percent Kentucky
bluegrass, 30 to 40 percent fine fescues, and 10 to 20 percent
perennial ryegrass. Heavily shaded areas having relatively dry
soils may be seeded with 100 percent fine fescues. Heavily
shaded areas with moderately wet soils may be seeded to rough
bluegrass. See extension publications Turfgrass Seed and Seed
Mixtures and Turfgrass Species for Pennsylvania for more information
on seed and turfgrass species.
10. Drag
Following seeding, drag the area again to work the seed into
the seedbed and to cover the seed with a light layer of soil.
11. Roll
Firm the seed into the soil by lightly rolling the area.
12. Mulch
Where there is little existing grass, a very light straw application
of mulch may be applied to retain moisture and to promote
germination. Care must be taken that the mulch is not
heavy enough to smother or completely shut off light to the
existing grass.
13. Water
The seeded area should be kept moist until the seed has
germinated and the seedling plants have become well established.
From PennState
http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/home-lawns -
to reseed a lawn do you have to apply dirt on top?
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Hah one like mine...schmuck
3m 30sLength in seconds