Tips for Overseeding Your Lawn

Tips, Tricks

1. ahhhh!! thank you about time I found something very useful i appreciate it
2. crabgrass pre-emergent that you can use when you overseed is sold under the trade name Tupersan common name (usually in 4-point font on the left side of the bag) is siduron 
   
   The Following is how you should overseed for PA:.
   
   n Renovation Program I
   (early to midspring or late summer to early fall)
   This program is suggested when the existing population of
   turfgrasses include 50 percent or more desirable species; there
   are few or no perennial grass weeds (bentgrass, nimblewill,
   quackgrass, tall fescue, etc.); and the thatch layer does not
   exceed ½ inch.
   1. Weed control
   As a general guide, if only easy-to-kill broadleaf weeds such
   as dandelion or plantain are present, 2,4-D may be applied
   and the seeding may be done in two weeks. A combination
   of 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba is suggested if the weed
   population contains many different weed species or hardto-
   kill weeds such as knotweed, clover, or ground ivy. A
   six-week waiting period before seeding will be required following
   the use of this herbicide combination. For other less
   common weeds, the appropriate herbicides should be applied
   according to the manufacturer’s directions. After waiting the
   prescribed period and assuming adequate weed control has
   been obtained, you are ready to proceed with the remaining
   renovation operations. These steps should be followed in
   sequence as one continuous operation.
   2. Mow
   Mow area closely (approximately ¾ inch) and remove all
   clippings, leaves, and other debris by sweeping or raking.
   3. Thatch
   Thatch is best removed with dethatching equipment with vertically
   rotating blades or aeration equipment. Remove thatch
   only during periods of cool weather and adequate moisture.
   Thatch should not be removed during periods of high temperatures
   or drought or during late fall when winter desiccation
   may occur. Maintaining a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0
   will favor microbial activity and breakdown of thatch.
   4. Cultivation
   Mechanical aerating machines that remove plugs of soil from
   the turf area are used to alleviate soil compaction and to prepare
   a partial seedbed. Aeration should consist of a minimum
   of eight to ten times over the area. A partial seedbed may
   also be prepared by using a spiking machine or by severe
   hand raking. Results with these methods will not be as good
   as with aeration equipment.
   5. Lime
   Lime should be applied in accordance with a soil test. If the
   lime requirement exceeds 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet,
   apply 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet at the time of renovation
   and the remainder the following spring or fall.
   6. Fertilizer
   Fertilizer should be applied in accordance with a soil test.
   In lieu of a soil test, apply 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet
   or a 0–20–20 or equivalent fertilizer plus 25 to 30 pounds
   per 1,000 square feet of a turf-grade 10–5–5 or equivalent
   fertilizer having 35 percent or more of the total nitrogen as
   water-insoluble nitrogen.
   7. Drag
   Following cultivation (aeration, etc.) and lime and fertilizer
   application, drag the area with a large door mat or section
   of chain link fence to mechanically work lime and fertilizer
   into the cultivated soil.
   8. Seedbed preparation
   Repeat the cultivation operation to further prepare the seedbed
   for seeding. If an aerator is used, six to eight times over
   will again be necessary.
   9. Seeding
   A turf-type disk seeder is the best tool for seeding. This
   machine cuts the seed directly into the soil, ensuring the firm
   contact between seed and soil that is necessary for maximum
   germination. When no disk-type seeder is available, uniformly
   broadcast the seed over the area. The total seed quantity should
   be divided into two equal lots, sowing one lot in one direction
   and the second at right angles to the first. Good-quality seed
   of turfgrass species adpated to the environmental and use conditions
   should be used. In open, sunny areas, improved turftype
   cultivars of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, or tall
   fescue can be used. If Kentucky bluegrass is chosen, use a blend
   of equal parts of two to five cultivars. Mixtures of turfgrass
   species are preferred in most lawn plantings. In sunny or partially
   shaded areas use a mixture of 50 to 60 percent Kentucky
   bluegrass, 30 to 40 percent fine fescues, and 10 to 20 percent
   perennial ryegrass. Heavily shaded areas having relatively dry
   soils may be seeded with 100 percent fine fescues. Heavily
   shaded areas with moderately wet soils may be seeded to rough
   bluegrass. See extension publications Turfgrass Seed and Seed
   Mixtures and Turfgrass Species for Pennsylvania for more information
   on seed and turfgrass species.
   10. Drag
   Following seeding, drag the area again to work the seed into
   the seedbed and to cover the seed with a light layer of soil.
   11. Roll
   Firm the seed into the soil by lightly rolling the area.
   12. Mulch
   Where there is little existing grass, a very light straw application
   of mulch may be applied to retain moisture and to promote
   germination. Care must be taken that the mulch is not
   heavy enough to smother or completely shut off light to the
   existing grass.
   13. Water
   The seeded area should be kept moist until the seed has
   germinated and the seedling plants have become well established.
   
   From PennState
   
   http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/home-lawns
3. About time someone made an easy to understand video. 15 videos later and I found one. 
4. It will germinate but you have to keep WET! If you get seed wet and let dry out it is dead. I reseed every year like this and it works fine. I set up sprinklers on timers and it works well.
5. So if seeds just rest on the soil surface they won't germinate?
6. Very informative thank you. Just a question though, can I starter-fertilize 2 weeks BEFORE seeding, or must it be 2 weeks after as you mentioned. It just seems to me that fertilizer is meant to be what fertilizes (opens up) the seed shell. But if we fertilize after seeding as you said, then the seed will already have opened up and hence there is no need for the fertilizer. Please correct me if I'm wrong.