Lilac - Syringa vulgaris - How to grow Lilac

Lilacs are one of the most evocative of flowers, probably due to the intoxicating aroma when in bloom. There is truly nothing like a large planting of Lilacs to induce adolescent behavior, including the shedding of garments, throwing of frisbees, playing of hacky-sack and all sorts of other activities. The Latin name for this plant is Syringa vulgaris. The genus name is from the Greek work for 'pipe,' syrinx. This refers to the hollow stems. Of course this is also the source of the word 'syringe.' The species name is Latin for 'common,' not 'vulgar.' Although some definitions of these words in English coincide, we often think of 'vulgar' as something a bit worse than 'common.' There is nothing vulgar about Lilac, except when it is beset with powdery mildew, but more on that later. Lilacs share the Olive family (Oleacaea) with Ash, Olive and Forsythia, among other common plants. Lilacs are fairly easy to grow, given average garden soil and good sun exposure. They can be purchased at any garden center, big-box store or some grocery stores, usually in pots, but also balled-and- burlapped. Plant in spring, water the first year or two, and they will soon pay off with fantastic aromatic blooms. The flower colors range from purple and lilac to white and pink. Some carmen flowers are as close to red as can be expected, but no true blue has so far been developed, although it's not for lack of trying. You can also extend the season of bloom by choosing your cultivars and hybrids wisely. There is also a tree lilac, S. reticulata, which blooms white in June into July, and is a handsome specimen, good for street tree plantings. There are also choice to make concerning size. Some dwarf varieties grow only four to five feet in height, with a spread of a half or two-thirds of this. Some types will grow thirty feet, although one can control the size (see below). There are a couple of critters to bear in mind when growing lilacs. The insect to look out for is the Ash Borer, which also, interestingly enough, attacks Ash trees. These clear-winged moth-like adults lay eggs on the bark, and when the larvae hatch, they eat into the wood (more accurately, the cambium layer), leaving the sawdust and a hole for the tell-tale indicators of infestation. There are some insecticides and traps that are used for these bugs, but the best bet is to prune out the older wood, which is most attractive to the adults. More on that later. The other pest common to Lilac is powdery mildew, a fungal disease that doesn't seem to harm a healthy plant, but does ruin the aesthetic value. I have seen inferstations so bad that the health of the plant was very compromised, but I haven't seen it as the main factor in mortality. Pruning of Lilacs should be undedrtaken after bloom, and the idea is to take out the oldest canes, right to the ground. The Lilac sends out several stalks over time, and if you can imagine having planted one five years ago, you could take out the five-year old cane(s), leaving the younger ones to bloom. You will control the height of the plant, encourage bloom on younger more vigorous canes and also remove the older more textured bark that attracts the female Ash boreer when it comes time to lay eggs. It is also good to prune off or pinch out the flower stalks before the shrub sets seed. This will encourage a better bloom the following year. Lilacs are a one-season wonder, with little to recommend them the rest of the year: no fall color, no interesting seed pods or winter bark interest. But the impact of their bloom more than makes up for this short-coming. Use them in the shrub border, near a path to the front door, as a specimen or a screen. By way of disclaimer, be sure when they are in bloom that any disrobing you undertake is done appropriately, be careful when throwing frisbees to avoid cars and other dangerous obstacles and playing hacky-sack can result in minor tendon pain.